History of the Famous "Herbawi Factory"

The herbawi factory is located in famous city of Palestine “Hebron” which makes keffiyeh. 76 years aged- Yasser herbawi is the founder of this company. He set up the company in 1961. His famous black and white keffiyehs became symbol for the Palestinian freedom struggle. The factory used to produce 150,000 keffiyehs per year by using 15 machines till the early 90’s. At start, 15 men and 25 women were employed for the production of keffiyehs in Herbawi factory. Mr. Herbawi has credit for making a cloth piece that became representation of Palestinian National struggle. The keffiyehs became the benchmark for the effort. Politicians and people struggling for freedom started wearing them in Palestine. Palestinian leader Yasir Arafat made the keffiyeh an official symbol of Palestinian freedom struggle when he started wearing it till his death. Palestinians always wear keffiyehs as a symbol of struggle but this is due to the high quality Herbawi’s keffiyehs that they now are become fashion statement all over the world. Even the people who have nothing to do with freedom struggle and even those who does not know about the keffiyehs history now start wearing it just for a fashion to look chic and trendy. 

According to the owner, Keffiyeh is now globally popular so their family business is now facing decline. As the Chinese nailed the market with their lower prices, the herbawi factory which used to make almost one thousand keffiyehs per day are now producing less than 100. Herbawi factory is making keffiyehs by using just two machines now; producing 300 keffiyehs per week. This is the last running keffiyeh factory now in Palestine. They were up in the market in 70’s but by mid 90’s; they started falling off as the Chinese imports took over the market share. Mr. Herbawi and his two sons are struggling to recapture the market.  They are struggling to keep the ship in the sea but Chinese imports are all on. It is a fact that Chinese keffiyehs are lower in prices but lower in quality as well. Herbawi’s keffiyehs are 100 percent cotton made but the Chinese Keffiyehs are not purely cotton. Mr. Herbawi terms Chinese keffiyehs as garbage.  Mr.herbawi says that his machines are in good condition and he just needs a market to sell out keffiyehs. There are many other reasons of his downfall except Chinese import like declining Palestinian economy due to unstable political situations and Israeli roadblocks and military checkpoints.

Mr. Herbawi says that Chinese makers use poor quality fabric in making keffiyehs. But Herbawi factory is still famous for the high quality keffiyehs as standard in the world. Herbawi’s keffiyehs come in original pattern shapes and color combinations. They range from light black, dark black, dark red, full white, and palestinian flag pattern keffiyeh. Mr. Herbawi is hopeful that if heavy taxes are imposed on China made keffiyehs then the local market can again rise with quality keffiyehs that are globally recognized. The Herbawi’s are sad that the product that ruled out on world for long is on its knees now.

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The Difference Between Keffiyeh and Shemaghs

They keffiyeh is spelled keffieh or kefiyeh as well. Shemagh is not different than keffiyeh. It is just another name of keffiyeh. It is a traditional headscarf usually worn by Arabs especially Palestinians. It is mostly square-shaped in pattern and design. The quality keffiyehs are 100 percent cotton made and soft piece of cloth. Earlier, it was made to block sun heat, dust and to keep head cool in summers. In winters, they are used to block cold and wind. Later on, it became symbol of freedom among Palestinians men and women especially when Palestinian president started wearing it. In Palestine, black and white keffiyehs are common. Keffiyehs are now in trend not only in Arabs but foreigners also. Shemags and keffiyehs are very comfortable and durable head coverings. Around the globe, you can spot keffiyehs (Shemaghs) in big malls and shopping centers. They have become a fashion accessory. They can be used in every season in whatever way you like.

The shemaghs or keffiyehs are being used for many years in Middle East. People wrap it around their neck. European countries Soldiers also use it much when they are on duty in the hot, dry and humid areas of Middle East like Iraq, Afghanistan, and Lebanon etc. The keffiyeh is typically a square shape which is then folded half to give it a triangle shape. Then it is worn around the head and across the forehead. There is no age limit. People of all ages can wear it either on head or around neck. There are many uses of keffiyehs or shemaghs. Some of them are written below:

Prevent Heat and sun: It acts as a cooler cloth when tie up around neck and shoulders to prevent extra heat and humidity by covering up the face and neck area. Use a soaked or wet shemagh wrapped around neck covering the face to bear the extreme hot temperatures. 

Prevent from cold: Same like it keeps you away from heat and sun; it keeps your head warm in cold weathers. It helps in keeping the warm temperature. Wearing under hat or cap can enhance its warmness. 

Prevent you from Dust: It is an amazing dust and dirt protector. It is not necessary that it would protect against dust in sandy or stormy areas. It is also being used against dust and dirt in cities and non-sandy areas. It can also keep you away from flying insects.

Bandage: In emergency situations, it can also be used as bandage to help injured people. As it is made from cotton, it can be good to stop bleeding. So it serves you a best first aid kit. 

A bag: Again in urgent situation situations, you can use shemaghs or keffiyehs as bags. Just fold it up and by tying up the corners and put anything you need in middle specifically small travel accessories. 

Above are just some uses. You can use it in many other ways. Shemaghs and keffiyehs are not different. Wear them in the way you like and wear the fashion and comfort same time.

Cultural Significance of Keffiyeh

Keffiyehs are headscarves made of square pattern designs mostly of cotton fabric. It can be wrapped and worn by many styles around head, shoulders or neck. Muslims as well as non Muslims also wear the keffiyehs or shemaghs (the other name of keffiyeh). It is come in different color contrasts. Black and white and red and white are the most popular ones. It is basically a cloth piece of freedom or national symbol of Palestinian nation. But it is equally famous in Arabs and all Muslims around the globe. Now even non-Muslims are adopting it as fashion.

Taking keffiyeh as just a piece of cloth or now as a fashion is a misleading concept honestly. It is more than just a headscarf used to cover face and head from sun, dust or cold. In a broad concept, a culture lies in keffiyeh itself. It became a symbol of solidarity when Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat had worn black and white keffiyeh always except some exceptional situations. He had his own style of wearing keffiyeh which was unique and different than other leaders.  After him, many Palestinian leaders and freedom strugglers put on keffiyehs as well. Even the women started wearing it as it is in their culture. One of the known Palestinian personalities named Leila Khaled was female affiliate of Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine. She mostly used to wear keffiyeh in the style of hijab. By wearing keffiyeh, she showed the equality of women with men in the way of Palestinian struggle. For that, she took help from keffiyeh. Keffiyeh is surely not just a headscarf but a whole culture and symbol for a struggle and effort towards an ambition. Palestinians consider keffiyeh something that not just belongs to their culture of Arab or Muslim world but as a symbol of solidarity and Palestinian Jihad against illegal occupation of Israel.

The colors of keffiyehs are also somewhat symbol oriented. Black and white keffiyehs are linked with Fatah group in Palestine while red and white keffiyehs are representation of Hamas group. The important point here is people around the world wear white and black or white and red keffiyehs regardless of any political or cultural consideration or understanding. This cultural representation is now largely being imported from China. Mr. Yasser Herbawi who was the sole manufacturer of keffiyehs in Palestine had to shut down his factory as Chinese keffiyehs are much less in price.

There is a lot of controversy associated with keffiyehs. It is sometimes termed as “terrorist scarf”. Critics say that only militants wear this. But by saying this they should clear that what should we call a Non-Muslim or Non- Arab who wears keffiyeh just for a fashion? Palestinian people give importance to keffiyehs as a cultural and national symbol but people other than Palestine who wears it for a fashion statement even does not know the meaning and true essence of it. It lives in hearts of Palestinian people while others discard it when not in use. Its popularity in western countries has not in any way done well to Palestinian people.